Apr 6, 2010

Runway makeup Fall/Winter 2010/2011

At Chanel, Peter Philips Paints It Black
March 10, 2010

Peter Philips, Chanel’s creative director of makeup, has a knack for pulling out specific elements of Karl Lagerfeld’s sartorial vision and reinterpreting them in beauty terms. Who could forget Philips’ ivory-coated lash lines and pearl-tipped fingers to complement the house’s all-white Spring ‘09 Couture show, or his jade nail from Fall ‘09, a shade that was plucked directly from the similarly colored tweeds and accessories that Lagerfeld sent down the runway? For Fall ‘10, Philips was at it again, although this time, he focused his attention solely on the eyes. “I kind of re-created a paint/print texture that Karl used in some of the handbag and shoe designs for the show,” Philips said yesterday backstage at the Grand Palais, where he was crafting an elongated, oblong shape on lids with tiny brushstrokes of La Ligne de Chanel in Noir Lamé placed on top of a sparkly taupe pigment from Enigma, a new eye shadow quad that will be part of Philips’ fall color collection. In addition to having a steady hand to get that perfectly haphazard liner application, Philips recommends applying the eye shadow wet to amp up its intensity. Otherwise, skin was kept clean and fresh, lips were nude, and cheeks were given a slight contouring with a lovely new shade of Joues Contraste Blush in Pink Cloud, which imparts an ever-so-slight luminescent flush. For you fellow nail junkies out there waiting to see what Philips would come up with next, he gave his limited-edition Jade Rose—a subdued pink color that was released last fall but was overshadowed by its pure green counterpart—a second go-around this season, which means you’ll have another chance to get your hands on it when it bows this summer, if you missed out on the opportunity last year.

Backstage At Fendi, A Soft And Girlie Déjà Vu
February 26, 2010

There was a bit of a rock ‘n’ roll vibe backstage at Fendi yesterday, where the hair and makeup team of Sam McKnight and Peter Philips combined to create a pretty, feminine take on a masculine idea. McKnight loosely worked off the concept of a greaser-era pompadour, although his coifs were far looser than those worn by 1950’s bad boys—not to mention messier. While McKnight gathered models’ hair into high ponytails, rolling them over themselves and pinning them to hold, he made sure to use a light hand, letting rogue wisps and flyaways help shape the end result. It was quite similar to his ingenue-inspired topknots from Spring, come to think of it—and the nostalgic reference wasn’t lost on makeup artist Philips. His signature peachy cheek, which we have become so accustomed to seeing on this runway, was in full effect for Fall as he once again turned to Chanel’s Joues Contraste Blush in Fresque, applying it to the apples of models’ cheeks and adding a mauve-y gloss to their lips for some sheer shine. To better serve the softness of the overall look, Philips used a few strokes of a beige eye shadow for slight contouring but chose to skip the mascara and eyeliner altogether—a decision that is gaining popularity at the Fall shows in general. Could last season’s lash-loving be coming to a premature end? Stay tuned.

Sexy Dominatrices Backstage at Dsquared2
by Kerry Olsen
Posted Friday February 26, 2010

An immaculate uptown dominatrix was the Helmut Newton-inspired face at Dsquared2 that screamed fantasy and desire.

“Graphic, dark eyes and lips,” MAC Cosmetics’ Gordon Espinet said, describing the strong look, which emphasized elongated eyes and a heavily rouged mouth, he created backstage for the show. “We worked more with powder than foundation, to create the face’s matte canvas,” said Espinet, who used MAC’s Feline Kohl eye pencil to emphasize the eyes, which were layered with gray eye shadow and finished with a midnight blue sparkle. Taupe blush was used to contour cheekbones, and the pout was created by blending orange and red lip shades.

“Sexy, sharp power dressing” were the buzzwords Sam McKnight, global ambassador for Pantene Pro-V, used to describe models’ slicked-back manes. Pantene mousse was applied to the scalp, followed by a wet-look gel that gave a glossy finish worthy of the social elite.

Streamlined Beauty at Giorgio Armani
by Kerry Olsen
Posted Saturday February 27, 2010
Last Edited Sunday February 28, 2010


“It’s the Nineties - Armanified,” said Linda Cantello, international makeup artist for Giorgio Armani cosmetics. “The look is a return to minimalism, but with a shot of glamour,” she said, referring to the model’s dewy skin that acted as a backdrop a dramatic, bi-colored brow.

Burgundy and grey arcs were crayoned below eyebrows - the dark grey blended to a soft trace by Armani himself backstage.

Taupe Rouge D'Armani lipsticks were used to contour lips, cheekbones and eyes. The second brows came courtesy of lip pencils.

Cream Nera was applied on skin before being liberally covered in Fluid Master Base.

“It’s a geometric profile,” said hairstylist Oribe of the slick, graphic updos that were tightly fixed into place with Oribe’s Anti-Humidity spray. Gel Serum ensured hair was held fast to the scalp.

Brows And Beehives, Backstage At Prada
February 26, 2010

The brow is back for fall—at least according to makeup artist Pat McGrath, who carefully etched full forehead fringe with short strokes of CoverGirl’s LineExact Liquid Liner in black and brown backstage at Prada yesterday. The somewhat fifties-style arch shapes came in sharp contrast to McGrath’s usual style at the show, where she has been a champion of the bleached brow for the past few seasons. This time around, however, it was all about keeping things strong and feminine, a concept that worked nicely with hairstylist Guido Palau’s coifs, which he described as “classic French hairdressing done with a very chic, uptown nod to the sixties.” Prepping models’ tresses with Redken Thickening Lotion, Palau wrapped two separate sections of hair over a mesh cushion, which he used to create height and volume in the back for what ultimately resembled a beehive-style updo. “It’s really a modern take on the chignon,” he offered, before shellacking the top portion of the head with heavy layers of Redken Forceful 23 Super Strength Finishing Spray and adding braided-rope headbands to accessorize the look. It struck us as more retro than modern, but we’re not complaining.

credit : style.com