Sep 16, 2009
The Look We Loved: Marc Jacobs
Has there ever been a more modern woman than Martha Graham, who forged a new language of movement in the late 1920s with her startlingly original choreography and fluid, shape-shifting costuming? With his ability to reinvent the fashion vernacular (and shift a few shapes himself) each season, designer Marc Jacobs possesses a similarly spectacular talent. So perhaps it should come as little surprise that his spring collection made loose reference to the iconic contemporary dancer—both above and below the neck.
“Marc wanted the girls to look dancery and a bit eccentric, like they might have just come offstage from somewhere,” says stylist Guido Palau, who pulled the hair back into gravity-defying, Graham-inspired ballerina knots. “She’s a performer . . . soigné and a little bit crazy.” (To add to the air of extremism, models like Jessica Stam (top) and Vlada Roslyakova went bleached blonde specifically for Jacobs’s show.)
Just before sending the models down the runway, Palau slipped wide organza and lamé scrunchies—embroidered with tiny faux pearls or crafted to look like a cluster of palest pastel seashells, respectively—over selected knots. (Yes, that’s right: Now Marc has made the scrunchy cool, again, too.) With a dash of off-kilter black eyeliner above and below the lashes and a mismatched red lip by makeup artist François Nars (back for his second consecutive season with Jacobs), they wandered through the designer’s stark-white show space like quirky Broadway performers on their way to a highly stylized rehearsal.